So, you have picked out your space, you have your lights, you know all about the lumens you want to splash down on everything. You have compared reflective materials, and have bought the best one you could afford, you have your chains for hanging your lights, and most importantly you have your free weed seeds and the ones you paid for all ready to germinate and get going. So, now what? Yup, you guessed it, the grow room. You have some choices here, you can have somebody build it for you (pricey, but if you can drop the scratch and you trust the builders, go for it). If you don’t want to afford that kind of a cost, I highly recommend you build your own.
Building your own, it’s a little like growing your own marijuana, sort of
Nobody said the process of growing your own marijuana was going to be easy or cheap, and if they did, they were lying. However, you can do lots of things on your own that will curtail your grow costs significantly. Besides, if you build your own grow room, you can customize it to you specifications. If you understand the concept of building a frame out of 2×4’s, then you are well on your way to understanding how to build the grow room. The most important parts are building rigid and base mounted walls that can withstand the weight of the lights being mounted to them, and building the structures that will secure those walls to the floor, and to one another. Sort of like building a very tiny house, except 100 times easier. Go ahead and read a book about building structure walls for a house. Read the chapter once, sleep on it, and then read the chapter again. I guarantee you will get it by the 2nd read. Don’t buy a book, go to the library and rent one. Ask the librarian if you can make a copy of the diagrams in the book. If he says no, make a copy of them into a piece of paper with a pencil. You will get it, I promise you. I won’t insult you by saying this is easy that would not be fair. I know how to do this, so I cannot gauge how hard or easy it is for a newbie anymore.
Since we are all about doing the right thing from the start, let’s talk about how you are going to catch all of that light from the edges and verges of your marijuana grow, and reflect it right back to your happy, healthy marijuana plants. We are going to talk about how to achieve optimum reflective gains, and the best materials you should be using in order to achieve that excellent, consistent “all plant” grow. In the confines of your grow room you can actually reflect more light to the undersides and sides of your marijuana plants than you can in the wild, or the garden. Just imagine plants that are budding from every possible angle in the flowering phase, and you will have an idea of what I am talking about.
Foylon, the best reflective material for your marijuana grow room
It might be a little bit harder to find, but it is worth the effort. Foylon is not a treated paper, like Mylar is; it is more of a permeated fabric. That makes it far more durable, re-usable and easy to work with. Foylon has a superior reflective coating that actually reflects every bit as high of a percentage as Mylar, and also reflects available light far more evenly, thus reducing the possibility of overheating, spot focusing, and uneven dispersal of light. That makes your marijuana grow far more consistent from plant to plant, and that my friends will increase your productivity. More bud means more money in the long run, so you cannot go wrong with the right reflective material.
Let’s talk about the walls of your marijuana grow room
While we are on the topic of your reflective edges and maximizing all available growing space, let’s talk about the walls of your growing room. You need to have your walls as close to the plants as you can. Remember the farther you push out the walls of your grow room, the more square footage your lights have to cover, and the more you are messing up your ratio of lumens to square footage. As you know, you want more light per square footage, so keep your grow room walls in tight. This does not mean that they should touch the plants, but they should be very close. Leave enough space for the reflective material to do its job, while ensuring you aren’t pushing things out so far that you are messing up your lumens ratio.
It isn’t really a matter of signing up for anything, more an issue of doing some online research and then making the decision to buy some marijuana seeds. Hedge your bets, and start scoping out who gives the most free marijuana seeds per order, and if any of those marijuana seeds are what you are interested in.
Do the research
There are so many free marijuana seeds out there that it is now possible to be a selective shopper, if you will, concentrating not just on your “pay for” marijuana seeds, but also on the selection of your free marijuana seeds. All the companies will tell you what they are going to give you, so start doing a little bit of research on that. If one seed company is offering you two of the crunchy white widow you are looking for, as opposed to the other company that is offering you just 1 of the same widow then it should be pretty obvious which marijuana seed company you should be giving your money to. Make sure that you are getting what you really want, or what compliments your marijuana growing program.
Learn to be a savvy (and well researched) marijuana shopper
Try shopping with this in mind, you can be as particular and discerning in the marijuana freebies you’ll get, as you are in the “pay for“seeds you get. Try to have the marijuana freebies you get complement your “pay for” order. For example, if you are going heavily into the sativa end of the genetic spectrum, have your free marijuana seeds reflect that. Pick the marijuana seeds that are a higher Sativa percentage than Indica percentage. It will never hurt you to have various marijuana strains within one spectrum of the medical marijuana biz.
Mix and Match that free cannabis weed seeds
If you are interested in doing some Indica, get some free seeds that have a higher Indica percentage. The variety and genetics out there run the gamut, and yes you can get PURE Sativas, or PURE Indicas. It isn’t easy, and there are not a lot of the pure marijuana strains out there, but they are out there. Do your homework on both your free seed, and the ones that you pay for. Believe me, the marijuana seeds of high quality are not inexpensive, and it is worth your while to go ahead and be prepared for the cost that you will pay.
So your little babies have sprouted congratulations. One of the things you will notice is that the seed cap seems to be affixed to their heads in a rather tight fashion. Most of your plants will eventually shake this seed cap off; some will not be able to do it unaided. I advise extreme caution in the removal of a seed cap, and if you can avoid it, don’t do it at all. Here’s the thing, it is essential that the seed cap get shaken off by the plant, but the damage you can do to the plant is assisting can be terminal. Terminal damage that is. One way to approach the issue is to wait and see what happens. I have seen sprouts carry a seed cap for 2 weeks, and then shake it off. I have seen sprouts that couldn’t shake off a seed cap, and died because of it. I have also seen plants that could not shake off the seed cap, but thrived anyway. I have also assisted plants in shaking off the seed cap, some thrived, and some never did. Sometimes I think that the inability to shake off the seed cap may be an indicator that there is something wrong with the plant in the first place, but I would never posit that as a hypothesis, I do not have enough empirical evidence. If you are considering pulling a seed cap off, let me make a series of suggestions. Wait until such time as the seedling has been able to establish some roots. This may take about 2 to 5 days, but do it anyway. After a good amount of time, go ahead and try GENTLY, with tweezers to grab a loose end of the seed cap and gently pull it. If the thing does not pop off immediately, LEAVE IT! Do not just pull harder, you will rip the seed cap and the top of your plant right off. Wait a few days, and then try again. Maybe you can get part of the seed cap off, maybe you can get all of it off, but the important thing is to not rush this process. If that seed cap does not want to come off, it isn’t coming off; maybe you can do damage control by removing just portions of it. Whatever the case may be, be gentle during this process.
For the best grow room results, a reflective surface on your walls and floor are a great way to maximize available light, and send it to all the parts of your happy, healthy marijuana plants. We are going to discuss some excellent materials that can be used as reflective draping or wall surfaces.
Go with the best for the walls of your ganja grow room
Reflective materials catch available light that would otherwise fall off the edges and verges of the grow room, and disappear. After catching and collecting that light, they reflect, or “diffuse” it back onto the eager marijuana plants, thereby increasing the efficacy of your lighting and lighting systems. While you do not have to use reflective material on the walls, it is highly recommended that you do. You want to maximize every square inch and foot of your grow room, and reflective materials are the best way to go. I am going to discuss two different reflective materials with you, and then set you loose on your grow room.
Shed some light on the Ganja grow room walls
Let’s start with one you might know already, the Orca Grow Films. Manufactured form a tough, resilient cloth-based fabric (not paper, thank you very much) Orca reflects light evenly across the spectrum, and across the grow room. It has a measured reflection rate of 94 to 98%. No more pinpointing light and nasty hot spots in the grow room, and no more crisped marijuana plants; this is an excellent material with incredible re-use and cleaning capacity. Orca is much easier to work with, much more flexible and does not crinkle on contact. Orca Films are more expensive than Mylar by about 20%, but you will realize the benefits of it almost immediately. Orca Films are considered a green material in both construction and use. Next up is Permaflect, another GREAT material that is based on a mesh backing, and is extremely durable. The mesh backing is highly reinforced and incredibly durable, I have been using the same Permaflect sheets for about 7 years now, and they are every bit as good as they were when I first bought them. Permaflect has a high re-use value, almost indestructible, with a reflectivity rated at between 95-97%. Permaflect is also a diffuse fabric that does not pinpoint light and create hot spots. It is more expensive than Orca Films by about 20%